Posts from the “Africa” Category

CHAPTER 2: MOROCCO

Posted on July 26, 2014

My apologies for taking forever to update the second part of this post.  Been traveling all over Europe (now in US) and don’t always have good wifi connection.  It also didn’t help that my laptop died on me. It was very stressful I must say.

Luckily, the guys at the Apple store in Grand Central, NY fixed it.  Unfortunately, they had to delete all of my existing files, music and pictures (CRRYYY) but it was better than not being able to use my laptop I guess.

Anyho, in less than two months after our Morocco trip, Emma and I have traveled to eight other countries.  Morocco almost feels like a lifetime ago now which is sad and scary at the same time. You get so tired from traveling non stop, some memories become a blur.  It’s a good thing I took gazillion pictures to remind me why Morocco was (and still is) one of the highlights of my world trip so far.

 This is as fresh as you can get me – juice, picture taken in CasablancaIMG_1635

 Approaching Ksar Ait Ben Haddou, one of the most authentic and well preserved villages in the Atlas region.IMG_1894

Entering the Ksar, we met this super talented artist who uses a unique technique in painting wherein he would use a chalk to sketch on the paper first, and then burn the back of the paper to create shadows and shades for effect.IMG_1896

A peek inside his studio where hundreds of his paintings are displayed.IMG_1897

A bit of a hike to get to the top of the Ksar but well worth it. With my roomie Robyn 🙂IMG_1903

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Found a new favourite animal, they are so adorable, it’s good to know these camels are well looked after.  
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The camel’s owner that can easily pass as Nick Cannon’s long lost twin brother.

These colourful pots are just some of the items being sold on the foothills of the Todra Gorges. 
IMG_1862Todra Gorges is like a mini version of the Grand Canyon.

IMG_1864From Ouarzazate, we traveled to our last Morocco destination (Marrakech) and the first thing we checked was the famous Jemaa El Fna Square. Jemaa El Fna is located in one of the famous medinas in Morocco.  A medina means Old City or Gated City, because it is typically walled and  has gazillion narrow and maze like streets. So when you go to a medina, it’s like being inside a city within a city. It’s like having ‘inception’ but of cities and not dreams.  The square becomes more alive as the day goes on and for tourists, especially female tourists, it can be a little bit overwhelming.  There are a lot of things going on, Emma described the square at night like ‘Bali on crack.’  There are snake charmers, magicians, acrobats, dancers etc. and at around 6pm food stands are set up and the air is filled with aromatic steam and smoke of Moroccan food.

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Waiting for our dinner to be cooked by the master chefs of food stand no. 55 🙂IMG_1974

Jemaa El Fna at nightIMG_1981

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The following day, I tried the traditional Moroccan hammam for the very first time.  I had been warned that it’s not for everybody but I am a fan of massages and I like the idea of a good body scrub, so I went ahead with two other girls from my tour and boy was I in for a big shock. We were ushered to go inside this heated room and we were stripped naked.  I’ve been traveling with Emma for a few months now but we haven’t seen each other naked and then suddenly I found myself naked with two other girls I’ve only known for a few days. Call me prude but I’m one of those girls that still go inside the toilet cubicle in the gym’s change room. We were then covered with mud, and were left in this super hot room for like almost an hour inside.  I was dying.  I am not a big fan of sauna’s, the most I’d stay is like 10 minutes, so it was not relaxing for me at all.  One of the girls kept saying to just think that this was how the princesses were bathed in the olden times. The thought kinda helped but only for like 2 minutes and then I was miserable once again.  Alas after what felt like a lifetime, the attendants came back and started washing us off, shampooing our hair first and then scrubbing us with this rough knit.  I was the last one to get rinsed off so I ended up having the two attendants scrubbing me from different directions and I was like “aw, aw, aw” because they were scrubbing really hard.  After the hammam, they gave us back our robes and we were directed to go to the adjacent room for our individual massages.  This time we had our own rooms but we were not given disposable undies and I swear they would sometimes tour prospective clients along the corridors and with only the curtains to cover the doors, I still felt exposed.  Two hours later, we were done.  I kinda felt violated but in fairness, my skin did feel like a baby, lol!

Would I ever do it again? Maybe not. Should you do it? I say yes.

Inside the hammam place

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Another must try in Morocco is their spiced coffee, sadly a lot of tourists miss out on this gem because it is quite rare to find on the street.  One of the girls from our tour asked our guide where to find one and he led us to this adorable old man just outside the square and behold, for 2 dirhams you will get a short glass of the most amazing coffee.  Promise.

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To get good panoramic view/shot of the square, buy yourself a nice mint tea in one of the coffee houses nearby, make sure to chose the one that has a terrace though.  I went up early morning and the square looked pretty empty.

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IMG_2001After my eight day tour, I decided to stay for two more days to explore the medina on my own. I stayed at this beautiful riad which was quite a change from the hotels we’ve been staying and I’m glad I got to experience staying at a more traditional Moroccan place. I highly recommend staying in a riad.

IMG_4109Morocco definitely was an experience, an experience that is quite hard to top.

For now, I just have to look back at all these amazing pictures until my next visit.

Love,

Geri

CHAPTER 1: HERE’S LOOKING AT YOU, MOROCCO

Posted on June 2, 2014

I’ve made a decision, I’m gonna live in Morocco for one year. I need a new crowd. Do you wanna come? – Penny Lane, Almost Famous (2000)

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Ah Morocco… I have always wanted to visit this country.  It was one of the top “must visit country” on my list and when I was planning my sabbatical, I knew I had to include Morocco somehow.  A few weeks ago, I made that dream happen and I had the most amazing time and the craziest stories/adventures to tell.

From London, we flew to Casablanca via Royal Air Maroc arriving in Casablanca airport around 9.30 PM.  I said my goodbyes to Emma at the airport as she was doing a different Morocco tour and then waited patiently for my tour guide company to pick me up.  After an hour of waiting I started to panic.  I had no idea which hotel I was supposed to go to and could not contact my tour company because there were no wi-fi connections available.  I tried to keep calm and started asking security people where I could get wi-fi connections and having some major ‘lost in translations’ moments because they didn’t know how to speak English. So after going back and forth level 1 and level 2 of Casablanca airport, with my heavy luggages in tow, I finally got wi-fi connections but realised it’s past 10 PM and my tour provider who are based in London were probably off to dreamland already.

There were a few shops still open inside the airport but no one spoke English so I knew they were not much help. Luckily, I saw a small office that says “chief of airport security” and made my way inside.  There were a couple of guys talking but the guy sitting on the chair, who was smoking cigarette had his arms opened asking me to come in and I basically bursted out “I need help”.  He asked what happened and I told him that I didn’t know where to go because no one picked me up.  I’m proud to say that I didn’t cry and was quite composed throughout the whole ordeal, but I was pretty close to crying. The next hour was basically Bachir (the head of security guy) trying to contact the emergency number of the tour people in Casablanca, as well as in London without much success.  We were about to call the nearest hotel available to book an overnight accommodation so I can rest already when he got a call back from the tour guide and was told that they will pick me up from his office in half an hour.  While waiting, Bachir talked about his Berbere heritage and touched on Berbere history which was quite fascinating.  After almost an hour, I found myself still waiting for the driver so Bachir called the tour guide again and asked what’s happening.  They were talking in Arabic so I had no idea what was going on and then Bachir gave me the phone because the tour guide wanted to talk to me.  My tour guide said he couldn’t contact his driver so I have to get a taxi to the hotel and the tour company will reimburse me.  This was past midnight.  I don’t even take a taxi in Perth on my own at night time, and now am going to take one, in Morocco of all places.  Anyway, I decided to just go with the flow.  I took a taxi and it was quite a big taxi but there were no seat belts available and the driver doesn’t speak English, so I couldn’t even talk to him. I sat in silence for over 30 minutes ,which felt like the longest 30 minutes of my life.  I sat there not really knowing where I was going. When the taxi driver stopped me in front of this beautiful hotel, I wanted to hug him.  I knew right then that everything’s going to be okay.

So grateful for this man, for going out of his way to help me throughout my ordeal at the airport.

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In the morning, I met the rest of the group I was travelling with. I was surprised to hear that some had similar issues with not getting picked up from the airport but I think drama aside, we were all just glad we’re there and we’re all just excited to explore Morocco.

In front of the most beautiful mosque I’ve been, Hassan II Mosque found in Casablanca

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My beautiful roomie Robyn and I getting mobbed by other tourists. We asked one guy to take our picture and then all of a sudden other groups wanted to join in.  They were going to a football match and were wearing these colourful hats and carrying a flag which we thought was something symbolic but upon closer look, I realised it says ‘marijiuana’ hahaha IMG_3169

Morocco is a country of contradiction.  It’s almost hard to believe that it was once a happening place, it’s like time stood still at its peak back then and it decided to just stay the way it is.  You almost feel like you’re back somewhere in time. Back when things were simple and yet practical.  It’s backwardness becomes part of it’s charm and you find yourself getting sucked in.

Exploring the historic Kasbah of the Oudayas in Rabat

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At one of the oldest leather tanneries in the world. Located inside the old Medina in Fes (one of the oldest imperial city of Morocco).  I will never forget the smell or the imagery of this place.  Nor the amount of hard work the tanners put in to produce these quality goods.  To this day they still use natural vegetable dyes to work the leather.  A practice that’s over a thousand years old. Pretty amazing right? The owner of the factory joked that if I stay with him, all the girls in my tour will get the leather bags they want for free. Skin for skin?

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So I have this thing with having my picture taken beside men in uniform. Don’t judge.IMG_1667And an obsession with doors.  You will find the most beautiful and intricate doors in Morocco. Like this one.

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This beautiful door belongs to the one of oldest universities in Morocco, the Bou Inania Madrasa, found in the old Medina of Fes.  The oldest university in the world is also found in Fes, the University of Al-Karaouine built in 9th century, both universities are listed as UNESCO world heritage sites.

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Our guided tour took us to a pottery shop in Fes. The artisans in the shops made all sorts of different types of pottery. I stopped myself from buying plates (until I reach Istanbul) but made just one small purchase.  I’d be mad not to.

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After hours and hours of walking, we would all look forward to going back to the hotel where we can all relax and chill by the pool.

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One of the things that I was looking forward in my Morocco trip  the most was the jeep and camel ride, and it was indeed the highlight of my trip.  The camel ride more so than the jeep ride actually.

IMG_3517Before we started our camel ride, we visited a nomadic family.  We were so fortunate to have them welcome us into their homes and serve us their homemade rosemary tea.

IMG_3551 Most memorable ride ever

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 The long and winding roads up above the High Atlas Mountains. Got some serious motion sickness but well worth it for this amazing view. 

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More pictures to follow…